Sabong in Liliw: Inside a Philippine Cockfighting Coliseum

I want to be clear about something before we get into this: I’m not here to tell you this is a good thing or a bad thing. I’m here because it’s part of the culture I come from, and part of traveling honestly is showing what’s actually there — not just the temples and the food and the scenic overlooks.

Sabong has been in the Philippines for as long as anyone can remember. It’s legal. It’s organized. And on certain Sundays in Liliw, Laguna, it fills the coliseum up the street from where Abby’s family lives. I’d driven past it before — mentioned it briefly in the Liliw episode. This time I went in.

Abby’s dad came with me. He’s known there. Used to place bets. He’s the reason we got past the front without any trouble.

Before the Crowds

We went twice — once early, once after the place had filled up. The first visit was quiet. Tents and food stalls were being set up along the street outside. A few tricycles. No crowd yet.

Inside, the coliseum is circular with tiered wooden benches ringing the pit. There’s a glass enclosure around the fighting area — it looks more structured than you might expect. Organized, almost formal. The staff knows what they’re doing; they’ve been running these events for a long time.

We also got to see the ulutan — the matchup process before any fights happen. Handlers bring their roosters in and the birds are compared: weight, size, aggression level. The goal is an even match. It’s a lot of standing around, a lot of assessing. The roosters know something is happening. They don’t need to see each other to react.

The Tari

The part I hadn’t seen before was the tari — the blade attached to the rooster’s leg before a match. It’s a curved metal gaff, and watching the handlers work is like watching a craftsman: slow, deliberate, checking the fit. The blade itself is short but sharp enough that everyone around it is careful.

This is the moment where it stops being abstract. You understand what this is. And for the people around me, it was completely routine — something they’ve watched since they were kids.

The Crowd

By the second visit, the street outside was packed. Tricycles parked wherever there was space. People arriving on scooters, families walking in, food vendors doing steady business. Inside it was louder, more crowded, the energy different. A betting area along one wall. People who clearly came every time this happens.

I didn’t film the matches. I’m not going to. What I wanted to document was this: that it exists, that it’s organized, that it’s a Sunday routine for a lot of people here. Sabong also has a shared history with Mexico and parts of Latin America — a connection that goes back to Spanish colonization, something that shows up in ways people don’t always expect when they’re comparing Filipino and Mexican culture.

This is part of the Philippines 2024 series. Previous episode: Casa Amara in Batangas — mountain villa, private pool, and a steep hike to the beach. Next: the last day — Liliw farewell, Manila Airport, and the flight home via Taipei. The series started with the flight from California to Manila.